Reports abound about the health effects of coffee, depicting it as
everything from a dangerous drug to an elixir of life, and a recent study adds
further uncertainty to the mix. Scientists at the University of Glasgow have
recently quantified what coffee aficionados have always insisted: not every
espresso is created equal.
The researchers visited 20 shops in Glasgow’s west end, ordering a
single espresso in each. They opted for take-away and brought their coffees
back to the lab for analysis by high performance liquid chromatography, a
technique for separating the individual components of a chemical mixture. With
this approach, they measured levels of chlorogenic acids, a set of antioxidant
compounds whose effects on us remain unclear, and caffeine.
The results showed huge variation in the chemical content of the
coffees, with some containing up to six times more caffeine than others. Even
taking into account differences in serving size, some still had three times
more caffeine per unit volume. Notably, every single coffee analysed contained
more than the 50mg of caffeine often cited as standard for a single espresso
shot.
Why the variability? Multiple factors affect coffee’s chemical content,
such as whether the beans come from arabica or robusta plants (arabica beans
have less caffeine) and the extent of roasting, which breaks down caffeine. The
grind’s fineness and the pressure and temperature settings on the espresso
machine also affect the final result.
This variability means you could unwitting swallow more caffeine than
you intend. Variations in sensitivity from one person to the next mean there is
no daily allowance suitable for everyone, but the Glasgow researchers suggest
that customers would benefit from information about the contents of their
beverages.
On a practical note, supposing you find yourself thirsting for coffee in
Glasgow, Beanscene and Starbucks will soothe you with just under 2mg of
caffeine per millilitre of espresso (coming out to just 51mg for the smaller
Starbucks shot and 77mg for Beanscene’s larger one). Costa Coffee and Heart
Buchanan pack the biggest punches, each with more than 6mg of caffeine per
millilitre.
Author - Catie Lichten
Update - Mark Lear - 2014
This study was recently published in the Royal Society of Chemistry's journal Food and Function in 2011
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